Gary and Ginger at the end of our Berryman Trail backpacking trip
What else could I use for today’s picture?
Today was the day we’ve been carrying around additional clothing for. Since yesterday the temperatures plummeted over forty degrees, we even had some snow sprinkles as we broke camp.
For a change we got away a bit earlier – the temperature in the tent being around 45°F encouraged us out! We started out bushwhacking back to the trail just after 10am and arrived at the Berryman Trail head just before 1pm. We spent a bit of time exploring and dallying on the trail, but the weather made for a quite dreary hike. This part of the trail is a lot more uneven with lots of changes of elevation. Unlike most of the trail, this section doesn’t tend to hug the contours, but dives down into the hollows and then climbs up the other side. We were relieved to find the van where we’d left it, and undamaged – as you never know what to expect when leaving your vehicle at a trail head.
So we’d hiked a modest 24 miles (61,000 steps) in five days, our longest hike was day one – six miles, and our shortest was today’s at around four miles. To put it in context, it is possible to hike the entire Berryman trail in one (hard) day. We planned our trip around stopping where we thought there’d be water, and to last out a reasonably time as we had the whole week without the kids. We probably carried enough food and fuel for nine days, and had to carry additional clothes for wet and cold weather, both of which really pushed up our pack weights. Ginger had some trouble with her feet and knees towards the end of the hike, so I was carrying most of the heavy stuff, including extra water yesterday. Most of the time the day time temps were in the high seventies and nights were in the low to mid fifties. Though last night was below freezing and today’s day time temps just a tad above.
All the gear worked fine, the only items I carried but didn’t use were the first aid kit, emergency kit, my toe socks and my Vibram five fingers – which I took along in case I had trouble with the huaraches. However, My huaraches worked a treat, though I need to do something about the foot-bed of my second pair as it was too rough (I sanded them down when I got home and now they are perfect). The dehydrated food was excellent, though we’ll carry a lot less in future. The water filter/purifier, stove, tent, weather radio, trekking poles (I lost the rubber tip on mine, probably sucked off in some mud), sleeping bags (a tad too warm for me), sleeping pads and chairs (yes we took chairs) all worked fine. We had a bit of trouble with the coffee filter – but that is mainly because our cups are too narrow to be stable. We even managed to use the compass to fix our position on the trail at one point. We found that on the high points of the ridges my cell ‘phone was able to get a signal, so at least once a day we could check for messages (there were none). I rued leaving my rather heavy mini tripod behind, and that is my excuse for the the rather lack lustre arm’s length self portraits I’ve been taking.
Before arriving back at the trail head we’d realised that we had made a major planning blunder by not putting any end of trail beers in the van. So instead we drove to Potosi and treated ourselves to a nice thick hamburger. With an end of hike celebration later in the day in mind we raided Walmart for some scotch, cheese and crackers.
We still have two days to go before we pick up the kids at St Louis, so we headed off to Indian Creek Recreation Area for some car camping. We were not at all impressed at the state of the campsites, they were dirty, unmaintained and looked generally a mess. It gave us a bad feeling about the place. So we decided to opt for the relative luxury of Meramec State Park. What a difference. It probably looks more like a refugee camp at peak season, but at this time of year with temps going below freezing, it was almost empty. Though none of the facilities such as showers and washing machines are available out of season. We found a nice pitch in among some trees, which even had electricity not that we could do anything with it! We arrived shortly before the sun went down, and I managed to get a great picture of the bluffs on the opposite side of the Meramec river as we did a little preliminary exploration of the site.
We foraged for downed limbs, of which there was a plentiful supply after yesterday’s high winds, and we’d bought some fire wood locally, so we could have a huge fire in the supplied firepit and grill. Dinner was a Mango chicken curry over beans and rice. The fire was lit and essential to keep us warm as the temperature was hovering around freezing. Finally we broached the scotch, cheese and crackers and I ate and drank far too much.
Today’s alternate shots & extras
Ginger has some munchies on the trail. I have a Snickers bar somewhere in my pack too.
I don't know why I'm smiling, Ginger didn't even give me a bite of her Snickers bar
Snow on the flysheet. The temperatures dropped from the mid seventies to below freezing. We woke up to some snow sprinkles. Not nice!
Are we there yet? Ginger checks the map on our last day on the Berryman trail. And the weather's turned all cold and dreary.
Bluffs on the Meramec River at Meramec State Park, Missouri
Meramec River at Meramec State Park, Missouri
24 March 2011 | 365:083 | Copyright © 2011 Gary Allman
Feet up, taking a break on the trail
Today was a very windy day.
Today’s hike started with a climb again! This time the trail had a lot more ups and downs. We took a short lunch break sat by the trail enjoying the sunshine, which was when I took today’s self portrait(s).
I can’t praise my home-made huaraches enough. They’ve worked really well, it is great to be able to wade straight across creeks and through mud. I’ve not had any problems with hurting my feet. In 36 miles I’ve only caught my feet on sticks twice. Stones getting caught on the foot-bed isn’t much of a problem, I pick up about one a mile and because there’s no straps etc. to keep them in, they normally come straight back out. I’ve extended the sole at the front which helps prevent me from stubbing my toes. The rough foot bed surface on my latest pair has got round the problem of my feet slipping off of the foot bed when they are wet. As for getting cold, I can go barefoot to below freezing with no problem providing I’m moving, and I’ve a really nice pair of woolen socks that Ginger has made for my huaraches – they have a separate toe.
Once we’d dropped into Smith Mill Hollow, we found the creek had plenty of water in it. So much for carrying a load of extra water. We decided to hike on down to where the trail rises back up out of the hollow before looking for a campsite. We bushwhacked for about a quarter mile from the trail to the creek – only to find the previously full creek absolutely dry. So it was just as well we had plenty of water with us.
The wind was gusting to over forty mph and it didn’t feel very safe to be in among all the trees. We checked the trees near our chosen camping spot and none of them looked rotten or likely to fall. For the first time we had to set guy ropes on the tent to keep it steady. It was while we were surveying the area that Ginger saw a tree fall about 600 yards away. Not good. We carry a NOAA weather alert radio, and the forecast said that the wind would drop in the evening which was comforting, but we decided not to try lighting a fire in the gusty wind. With the wind, which had shifted from the South to the North came a rapid drop in temperature – around 20 degrees.
In the evening we heard a very raucous pack of coyotes run the trail up the hollow, 400 odd yards away. Coyotes sound pretty other worldly at the best of times, sitting in the dark listening to them pass by was an unnerving experience which led to a discussion on the merits of carrying a sidearm. Coyotes, of course, aren’t known for attacking people, but that information doesn’t help when you think about them running around outside your tent!
Today’s alternate shot & extras
Gary having a break on the trail. Soaking up a few rays and enjoying the warmth. The more astute may have noted that I'm wearing the same shirt. Well I did wash it in the creek, likewise my pants (trousers) but I accidentally left my tee shirt in the van back at the trail head, so I had to go the whole trip with a long sleeved shirt.
Breaking camp at Brazil Creek Campground, Missouri
Ginger following the Berryman Trail around the end of a hollow
Ginger on the Berryman Trail descending into Smith Mill Hollow
Our campsite in Smith Mill Hollow. The overhanging rocks were very pretty. In the darkness of the night I wondered what animal might like to rest up under there.
Note the guy rope on the tent. We've never had to set these before. They held the tent very securely in the wind.
Our campsite in Smith Mill Hollow. Viewed from on top of the rocks. It almost looks like there's water in the creek. Unfortunately there wasn't.
23 March 2011 | 365:082 | Copyright © 2011 Gary Allman
Waking up in the woods. Berryman Trail, Missouri
Last night we slept under the stars.
Waking Up (2007 - 365: 29)
Although it was a warm-ish night, 55°F or so, without the flysheet set it felt quite cool, in my 0°F bag I was hot and I kept it unzipped all night. I took this picture as a homage to a picture from day 29 of my Original 2007 365 days project.
We had cleared up and were away by 10:40 am. By 10:55 we were back on the trail proper. The Ozark Trail and Berryman Trails had split just before we crossed Little Brazil Creek, so now we were on the Berryman trail only. The day started with a modest two hundred foot ascent over about half a mile. There was a lot of evidence of trail improvements and changes being made, with very recent tracks of a large bulldozer in several places. Once up on the ridge the trail ran nicely along the contours winding in and out of lots of very steep hollows. At one point the trail was blocked by a fallen tree. Ginger managed to scramble over it, I elected to take a more sedate bushwhacking route.
There was some evidence of spring to be seen in the hollows, with a few flowers and some leaves showing along the trail. The five miles to Brazil Creek Campground passed quickly, and by two pm we were descending the very muddy switchbacks down to the creek. Up until that point the day had been sunny and warm, but it soon clouded over, and while we were examining Brazil Creek Campground trying to decide what to do next it started to rain. We quickly set up the tent and decided to stay put. In the evening we had a great fire in the provided fire rings.
We’d foregone lunch in the morning’s hike so we had double rations – partly to try and reduce our pack weights. We had chicken cous cous, Creole albacroe and a very yummy upside down lemon pie for desert.
Today’s alternate shots & extras
Gary and Ginger at yet another trail marker
Our Mutha Hubba tent set up with out the flysheet
One of the many hollows we walked around
22 March 2011 | 365:081 | Copyright © 2011 Gary Allman
Gary and Ginger on the Ozark / Berryman Trail
Near Floyd Tower Road, heading towards Harmon Spring Trail Camp.
The day started dull and grey, with the overnight temperature somewhere around 45°F but it warmed up to 80°F later and was nice and sunny at times. We had a slow start, a problem we encountered most of the trip, what with sitting in our bags chatting, drinking coffee and eating breakfast, breaking camp and taking pictures. We never seemed to get away before eleven!
Our plan was to camp somewhere near Harmon Spring Trail Camp, and once we were on our way we stopped only briefly so that I could take pictures of one of the old campground grills, which are scattered around the area and are being slowly consumed by the undergrowth. I also took a picture of the completely unspectacular spring, actually an artesian well, which looks like a large metal gate post stuck in the ground, out of which runs a length of metal pipe with a bit of rubber tube on the end from which the water runs into a concrete trough. We’d already taken water from the creek – we use a MSR SweetWater Water Purifier System which combines an active charcoal filter plus a chlorine treatment, so we didn’t need to help ourselves to the spring water.
The problem with stopping near water (apart from the noisy frogs) is that it generally means the next day’s hike will invariably start with a climb of some sort. Today was no different, after a short walk up a hollow the trail started to climb a total of some 260 feet. It was fairly easy going, and after that the trail tended to hug the ridge contours. We crossed a couple of forest roads which is where I took today’s picture. The trail ran along side but not visible from a couple of gravel roads for a mile of so.
Soon the trail started to descend off the ridge towards Little Brazil Creek, near the bottom we passed a large man-made stock/wildlife pond. once in the bottom of the valley the going was fairly boring for a while, and it was difficult to work out exactly how far down the valley we’d progressed. We stopped for a quick trail mix snack after crossing a small creek. Shortly after, we crossed Little Brazil Creek and the trail to Harmon Spring Trail Camp was very wet and muddy. We realised afterwards that someone had blazed (follow the orange tapes) a higher and drier alternative trail. I was fine but very dirty squelching my way through the mud, Ginger had to do a lot of bushwhacking to avoid the worst of the mud and water.
Harmon Spring Trail Camp is obviously well used. There was a wonderful display of daffodils around a couple of the trees. Seemingly either brought in by the horses that are obviously tied up there, or providing more fertile ground for the daffs to grow in.
The area was too well used for our liking, so after a quick look at the huge stock pond built around the spring we carried on along the trail until we crossed Little Brazil Creek for the final time. At this point the trail then climbs back onto the ridge over to Brazil Creek. We left the trail following a forest road running North parallel to Little Brazil Creek, and bushwhacked off the road to find a camping spot near the creek. The weather forecast was good, and the overnight temperature predicted to be up in the fifties, so we decided to not set the tent’s fly, and watch the stars from our bed. I found a pool in the creek deep enough for a good, if cold, wash.
We spent the evening sat by the creek watching the sun go down and eating one pot pasta and chicken followed by rice pudding serenaded by hundreds of ‘peepers’.
Today’s alternate shots
Gary looking remarkably chipper before drinking his morning coffee.
Gary and Ginger on the Ozark / Berryman Trail
Gary taking a bath at Little Brazil Creek
Watching the sunset at Little Brazil Creek
Today’s Extras
Camping at Edward Beecher Recreation Area. There's no denying the scenery can be a little dreary at this time of year. The purple bag contains our food and trash and is hanging from a tree to keep it out of the reach of raccoons and such. It was very difficult finding a tree with a suitable branch able to hold the weight of our food.
Abandoned campsite at Edward Beecher Recreation Area. One of the old campground grills, which are scattered around the area and are being slowly consumed by the undergrowth.
The spring at Edward Beecher Recreation Area
Forrest Road - CR-205 (Floyd Tower Road)
Sundown at Little Brazil Creek, Missouri
Peeper
21 March 2011 | 365:080 | Copyright © 2011 Gary Allman
Gary and Ginger Backpacking on the Berryman Trail
Today the sun shone.
The Berryman trail is very nice hiking, the gradients are generally fairly gentle – possibly because they are adapted for biking, and the surface is generally good, either soft or gravelly with a few muddy patches, which the previous night’s rain added to. The puddles on the trail were a great test for my new huaraches, which worked well and didn’t slip against my feet when wet. However, there was a different problem; the foot-bed material was so hard and sharp it abraded my feet. I had to stop using them after today and revert to my pair with the foot-bed that becomes slippery when wet. For today though, it was great to be able to walk straight through the mud and small creeks while Ginger had to search for a dry route across.
We stopped for a cooked lunch of cranberry almond tabouli at a creek about four miles in. All of Ginger’s efforts with the food dehydrator definitely paid off. Even though the food was dehydrated, the six days’ meals we were carrying amounted to 16lbs between us. Over the week we worked out a revised food strategy which will shave a few pounds off. We had enough food for a cooked lunch, dinner and dessert every day. We quickly discovered we didn’t need the cooked lunch – our daily trail mix rations were quite enough to keep us going. We can also drop some of the heavier foodstuffs. The salmon and any pasta weighs a lot mot more than the alternatives.
Our plan was to hike a nice easy five miles a day, today needed a little bit longer, six miles, to get us to an old disused campground – Edward Beecher Recreation Area, where there is a spring which we could use to top up our water if no other opportunities presented themselves. The campground must have been quite large, though it is completely overgrown now with only a few posts and old fireplaces and grills to show it was ever there. The spring it looked like it was a popular party spot for the locals, so we bushwhacked off the trail to be well out of the way and set up camp near a creek.
Once we’d got the tent up, we collected wood for the fire; there were plenty of fallen limbs around to choose from, enough for us to keep a small fire going for a couple of hours or more. Dinner was smoked salmon pasta with carrot cake in a bowl for dessert. Who says backpacking isn’t luxurious?
Sitting quietly by the fire the amount of noise coming from the frogs was startling, and one in particular seemed to be intent on making a very eerie and initially unsettling noise.
Today’s alternate shots
Gary at Berryman Campground. A quick self portrait just in case I didn't get a chance later in the day.
Testing my new huaraches
Today’s extras
We camped a little close to the van, but it was the highest - and therefore driest spot around.
Berryman Trail between the Berryman Trail head and Edward Beecher Recreation Area. These were fairly typical conditions for this part of the trail.
The higher parts on this section of the trail were all pretty much in this condition. The trail markers can be found at almost every point where the trail crosses one of the many forrest roads (tracks). This part of the trail is also part of the Ozark Trail, which explains the top Ozark Trail marker.
20 March 2011 | 365:079 | Copyright © 2011 Gary Allman
